Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted stop. Close by, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds gather.

It is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve berries on a sprawling garden plot situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city downtown.

"I've noticed individuals concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."

The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He's organized a informal group of growers who make vintage from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the group's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.

City Vineyards Around the Globe

To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and within the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Grape gardens help cities remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They protect land from development by creating long-term, productive farming plots within urban environments," explains the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a product of the earth the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," adds the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the rain comes, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."

Group Activities Throughout Bristol

Additional participants of the group are also making the most of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I adore the smell of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a container of fruit resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the car windows on vacation."

Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Production

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty vines situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking bunches of deep violet dark berries from rows of plants slung across the hillside with the help of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually make good, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of making vintage."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions

A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to install a barrier on

Bryan Brooks
Bryan Brooks

A passionate writer and communication coach dedicated to helping others find their voice and build meaningful connections.